Bethany Hamilton competes during the qualifying round of the World Surf League Surf Ranch Open on September 6, 2018 in Lemoore, California. I didn't know what my future held when it came to surfing, or that I would become one of the best female surfers in the world, I just had that willingness to try.". "I stood up on my third wave and rode it all the way to the beach, it felt like one of the best rides of my life. On Sky Sports' Life Lessons Through Sport, she explains how she dealt with the trauma and had the strength to go on and achieve the goals she had set herself. "My natural state is someone who doesn't need to be in the spotlight or have attention on them, I'm happier sitting in the background and doing my thing, but I realised that I could impact people. Two years after that, she was a national champion. “But that’s the way my life has panned out. "I guess my passion for surfing outweighed my fear of sharks, and I was just waiting until the doctor said I had the OK to get in the ocean.". “To go into a competition very freshly adjusting to all that, my little guy wasn’t sleeping good so I wasn’t sleeping good. Although needing intensive physical therapy and strengthening exercises to adjust her balance and movements to compensate for the missing arm, the only concession made to Hamilton’s handicap is on the surfboard, which allows her to duck-dive under approaching waves when she paddles out., Her triumph against adversity story made her the subject of an insatiable public interest, and her story quickly went global. To this day, she remembers her first surf after the attack vividly and her words show what a powerful experience it was. "I also knew that it [being attacked by a shark] is such a rare thing to happen and there are other normal things like driving in a car, which can be more dangerous. #liveunstoppable, A post shared by Bethany Hamilton (@bethanyhamilton) on Oct 10, 2019 at 3:10pm PDT. It took a lot of time in the gym, cross training, rebuilding my core and abs and just my overall body strength.”, Another motivation to return was a wild-card invitation to compete at the World Surf League Swatch Women’s Pro competition at Lower Trestles, southern California. I was always asking my parents to take me surfing before school and I'd turn up with wet hair and sandy feet! It’s been amazing to see how sharing my life story has brought so many people hope of all different ages.”, Bethany Hamilton: Unstoppable is out on DVD now. "I recognised that Soul Surfer would be being played in hospitals around the world and could help young kids going through tremendous challenges. You got this. Hamilton's faith proved crucial in her return to the sport. I found that it made me really happy too and kept me healthy while I was pregnant.”, With few complications and also making sure to adjust her position on her surfboard so as not to exert excessive pressure, she was able to surf until around six and half months pregnant – with both her children. But inwardly her mind was a jumbled mess of emotions.
W hen surfer Bethany Hamilton was flung from her board in a heavy fall during the 2014 Women’s Pipe Invitational in Hawaii, the competition co-commentator took … It was fun and challenging and I had a lot of drive going toward that. 1 at the time, Tyler Wright, in a third-place finish at the Fiji Women's Pro. Hamilton was pregnant – unexpectedly, reluctantly – a fact weighing on her mind that she did not yet feel comfortable enough to tell anyone about. Many individual athletes, whether they have been through the adversity Hamilton has or not, are often lone rangers and quite singular in their pursuit of excellence.
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